Make Swiss-made great again

These new timepieces are shaking things up in the Swiss watch industry

It’s been two months since the world’s largest luxury watch exhibition – Baselworld – concluded, and we’ve spent the time since then sifting through the dozens of high-profile launches of some of the world’s most coveted timepieces. These five novelties are our pick of the very finest timepieces that the venerable Swiss watchmaking industry has to offer this year.

Patek Philippe 5320G

This perpetual calendar from Patek Philippe is pure vintage down to its cream lacquer dial that looks as though it has already aged. The syringe hands, recalling chronographs from the ’50s and ’60s, are filled with SuperLuminova in order to make them visible under poor lighting conditions. In addition to indicating the day of the week, the date and the month, the watch features a day-night indicator, a moonphase and a leap year indicator worked into the design. It was Patek Philippe that made the first wrist-bound perpetual calendar back in 1925. They’ve been at it for longer than anyone else – and it shows in the 5320G.  $83,000


Breguet Classique 7147

Breguet does elegant, effortless and classic better than most other watchmakers, and its Parisian roots are in no small way responsible for that. A grand feu enamel dial, black-painted numerals and an off-centred small seconds hand at 5 o’clock shows that Breguet can keep things achingly simple, yet very appealing. The ultra-thin automatic movement with a power reserve of 45 hours shows that this over 250-year-old watchmaker has a technical side to it that is very 21st century. $21,000


Omega Speedmaster 38 mm  

Omega debuted 14 new models within the Speedmaster collection this year at Baselworld, and one of our favourites was this 38 mm timepiece with a green and yellow gold dual-tone bezel. The dress watch is powered by the Calibre 3330 movement, which is a certified chronometer. (Roughly 2 per cent of all Swiss watches qualify as chronometers.) Additionally, it packs in a chronograph and a tachymeter, backed up by the automatic winding movement with a 54-hour power reserve. Bond called. He’d like his watch back. $6,000


Hublot Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph  

This year the prancing horse celebrates its 70th anniversary. To mark the occasion, Hublot, which has partnered with the carmaker for the last five years, unveiled this timepiece at Baselworld. The 45 mm case, which comes in options of titanium, king gold and peek carbon (that’s extra-durable carbon) – each limited to 70 pieces – features an aggressive skeletonised architecture that was designed in the carmaker’s HQ in Maranello. With a flying tourbillon added to the mix, this one costs nearly as much as the starting price for a base model of a Ferrari. From $127,000 to $158,000


Rolex Cellini Moonphase

It’s been a long time since Rolex debuted a watch with a moonphase – the last time it did so was back in the early ’50s. The Cellini collection was revived in 2014 with the intent to reintroduce proper dress watches into the watchmaker’s portfolio, and Rolex rightly decided to reintroduce its moonphase within this collection. The complication is represented by a full moon and a new moon (the empty ring) visible on a starry sky at 6 o’clock. The railway minute track bisects the applied gold markers, and the date is indicated along a concentric circle beyond it. $36,000